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Thanks, good to know I am in the ball park. I also have a large roof rack.
All the Best Michael
Hi Ingemar,
I have been using a friends two pillar 4 tonne lift a lot recently. My only advice is go for the best you can, you will not regret it when your under your Landy at head hight.
All the Best Michael
- Det här svaret redigerades för 4 år, 1 månad sedan av .
Thanks for all the tips. I guess the first thing I can do is left the fuel pump out and check if its clogging. So happy I cut the access hole in the back to get to the fuel pump…
Sounds all good to me, well done.
Hi Tobias,
I have spent a few hrs today trying to track down my oil leak. Further to my comments, try taking the wadding plug out. If your crank shaft oil seal is leaking, like mine appears to be, then the bottom of the clutch housing could be collecting oil, as mine is, see below. I brought some of the cheap 1m plastic nozzle extension tubes used for waxing the chassis. They work well for getting in to difficult places. Its worth a try as it cant do any harm as long as you dont get it in your eyes and try and avoid the crank shaft seal. Rubber does not like brake cleaner…
All the Best Michael
- Det här svaret redigerades för 4 år, 1 månad sedan av .
Just a tought here, if I understand correctly the clutch is slipping? Is it juddering when you pull away, a sure indication the clutch is worn. If not do you have any oil leaks from the bottom of the bell housing. I do and it looks like it is coming from the main cam seal. ‘if you have the same it may be oil on the clutch plates. You could try brake cleaner with an extended nozzle and spray it in through the fording plug. Just a thought.
- Det här svaret redigerades för 4 år, 1 månad sedan av .
[quote quote=80020]då hade du bra timing!! grattis!![/quote]
Thanks for the encouragement, it was at the edge of my mech skill set, but glad its done now : )
- Det här svaret redigerades för 4 år, 1 månad sedan av .
so I dropped the sump today and guess what. The oil pump bolt was lose and had no loctite. Close call…
- Det här svaret redigerades för 4 år, 1 månad sedan av .
I have ordered from several companies since Brexit, there is no standardization. Some ask for payment of duties up front, one I had to pay 40% costs to UPS and one I had no tax and no charges. A mess to be sure…
- Det här svaret redigerades för 4 år, 1 månad sedan av .
Hi Peter,
Yes a TD5, I had the cam cover off recently changing the injector loom. I could not see any leaks then, but I did have to change the fuel regulator which was leaking. I plan to change the fuel filter, again, and will cut it open to see what I can see. When I changed the fuel pump I cut an access hole through the floor so now at least I can remove the fuel pump in about 30 mins so plan to lift it to see if the sludge is back. The Defender really is a gift that keeps giving, always something new : )
Thanks for the sound advice, I would never have suspected the injectors.
All the Best Michael
[quote quote=79975]Hi Michael,
It’s a td5?
That black sludge is common in Td5 pumps due to the construction of the engine, especially when the injector seals are starting to leak. i had a cusomter analyzing this many years ago as he thought it was an issue with the fuel from OKQ8 (this was in 2003-2004 something) and came back with carbon soot from combustion. Only ever seen this on Td5 engines. the other sludge you get from water and RME looks different.
So the issue is more likely to be the seals leaking a little compression and soot passed the injectors in to the fuel channel and eventually back to the tank where it accumulates and get stuck in the pump strainer. If you clean it out you might be ok for a long time, but if you notice it comes back quickly it is time to replace the injecotrs. If ignored in the long run it will clogg up the strainer and damage the fuel pump. And in some cases there will be a lot of air in the fuel system and the engine will not start unless you bleed it repeatedly every time you start it ?[/quote]not just me with this problem then…
I found this excellent guide to fixing the bolt issue. Next job coming up. http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Oil_pump_bolt.html
Hi Häkan,
I do all my own work, learning as I go, with the help of you guys and the internet. I have a plan to take the cam cover off and put an endoscope camera in and look for obvious damage to the chain tensioner and check the lose bolt if I can get to it. I am bit limited to how big the jobs are I can do, as I dont have a garage but use a friends, but for limited periods. But will order the bits I know it needs to be done.
All the Best Michael
Thanks for the advice, I haver stopped using B7 and tanked with B5, today I found B1, which I guess is even better.
Hilsen Michael
Hi PG,
Feel free to write in Swedish, I need to learn more, I just cant write it at all well. I considered fitting a two inch lift on my 90, but decided to go for standard HD after I learnt lifts affect the caster angle, the prop shaft, break pipes and sway bars, if fitted. But after I fitted new springs and Terrafirma shocks it did give it a bit of lift. See below the night photo is before and snow photo after. Not trying to flog the springs, I would just think twice before fitting a lift kit.
All the Best Michael
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