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Hi Henrik,
Learnt two big lessons today, leave one end of drain pipe lose while fitting the other end, otherwise it does not line up and the importance of lining up the body of the turbo with the actuator and pipes. Had to loosen the bolts and rotate the actuator to get it to operate correctly. See photo below the lines show how far out it was, so the actuator was binding. But she started, with no oil leaks, so far. Next is fitting the coolant hoses, 160km test run then dump all the oil and filters again. Its getting expensive.
Have a nice Day
I am going for a Swedish theme with the yellow and blue pipes : ) To be honest I spend so much time under the hood I thought I would liven it up a bit.
Yes I also blank my ERG, didnt like the idea of dumping exhaust into the clean side of the engine.
So as an update the turbo work continues.. Slowly
Best Regards MichaelP.S, Its not a Covid vaccination as my wife asked.,
- Det här svaret redigerades för 3 år, 9 månader sedan av .
Slowly getting there… Was very impressed with my Mrs, no issue with parts in dish washer, she is a keeper : )
Hi Henrik,
I am running against the clock, the UN will want me back at work soon, as Covid ends, so I have to get my 90 tip top before I go. In addition I have had some really bad experiences with local garages and I would rather do it myself. Normally I do one job and take a break, but I have been flat out for 2 weeks now. Started with front and rear arms and bushes, as she pulls after bumps. Spent the last 2 days fitting the PAS and new pipes what a bloody pain (Brit parts)…
Cheers Michael
- Det här svaret redigerades för 3 år, 9 månader sedan av .
Hi Björn,
Welcome to the club, sorry writing in English but I can understand Swedish. Like you I was new Land Rover owner as of Oct 2020, with a 2002 90 TD5. As I have been working from home I have done almost all the work on my TD5 other than changing a clutch and swivel housing.
My advice, drop all oils, engine, transfer, gear box and axles and change all filters 2 x engine, air and fuel filter. Then flush brake, clutch and coolants, as Martin said be ready for leaks, my clutch and fuel pump packed up, steering pump and crank seals all started to leak. But then a Land Rover is not alive unless its leaking something. Its the only way to be sure if you do not have a service history and you will learn a hell of a lot in the process. I discovered metal in the clutch fluid, jelly in my fuel pump and water and grease contamination in the front axle. Yes, also give every nipple you find a good grease and use copious amounts of WD40 or other on your rusty rear cross member and out riggers, event if they do not look rusty they will be…
I would also get the wheels off have a good look at the brakes and give the bearings and suspension a good going over. I learnt a great deal from these guys https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Cl1LJiWw5g and this guy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T0xTSYsA1Qs they are both a bit bonkers but you can learn a great deal.
Finally advice, spend time to research the right oils. I would highly recommend using the recommended MTF for the gear box I tried SAE and it didn’t like it in the winter, -23 gear selection got bad… If you live up North like me put a sump heater on the engine and get a diesel heater installed, they were a God send.
Any way thats my advice. Sorry last point, pace yourself, one job at a time. Second advice order spares from Paddock and order twice as much as you need as it will not be enough and you will save on customs and postal charged. I have found Paddock fast, reliable and they use DHL so the kit arrives, unlike others I know. Parts with TNT and UPS I have found get lost, damaged and take weeks. Good luck.
Cheers Michael
P.S. I am doing more than one job at the moment, big mistake.
- Det här svaret redigerades för 3 år, 9 månader sedan av .
- Det här svaret redigerades för 3 år, 9 månader sedan av .
- Det här svaret redigerades för 3 år, 9 månader sedan av .
- Det här svaret redigerades för 3 år, 9 månader sedan av .
Hi Henrik,
So I finally got round to starting the turbo, it was not my plan, but I had to change the steering pump, then found the water pump was clogged up, which meant removing the centrifugal filter housing and by that stage I thought sod it, in for a penny in for a pound.
As it turned out the water pump was well clogged, the steering pump was leaking and the hydraulic pipes were almost rusted through. Its been a long week… Will give an update when its all done.
All the Best Michael
Thats great news, my turbo is still on the bench. Did a long trip up North last week, came back and steering fluid leaking, then had to change rear prop shaft. I am starting to feel my Landy is avoiding the new turbo.
Let me know how yours go, I will do the same. All the Best Michael
I had a hell of a problem with my TD5 after changing the callipers. In the end I had to power bleed it, have you tried that? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D5zvN8YSk9o I find this guy very useful.
Also as Peter said the master cylinder can get a ridge in it and when you change the take up the seals hit the ridge. This recently happened with my clutch master cylinder after fitting a new clutch, see photos attached. I could not understand what the issue was as the seals seemed fine so I cut the master in half and you can clearly see the problem.
My advice would be first power bleed, if that does not fix it change the master cylinder, better safe than sorry…
All the Best Michael
- Det här svaret redigerades för 3 år, 10 månader sedan av .
Hi Henrik,
I am getting closer to fitting the turbo, decided to go the full hog so have ordered an Ali sport intercooler, I think the biggest challenge will be to get the winch and bumper off…
Did you sort your issues out, I was actually thinking, when I change mine out I will have a spare turbo. If your interested I could fit a new cartridge, if you would like to buy it, for cost : )
Hilsen Michael
Thank you, I will take a look
Hi Henrik,
Turned out my master cylinder was stuffed, not the seals but the bore was worn out. Take a look-
Regards Michael
I tend to use Castrol, other than the gear box where I use Land Rover MTF 94. I have tried 75w 90 but in the winter I find it effects the gear change. Living up North this is an issue. Have a look at the Castrol site, I have found them to be very responsive https://applications.castrol.com/oilselector/sv_sv/c/search
Regards Michael
Its from the Land Rover manual,
Hi Svante,
So I learnt something, 90s if fitted with 265/75/16 tires were fitted with sway bars, due to the give in the tires I guess. This may be useful for you, a photo of the recommended sprints for the landy.
Regards Michael
Hi Henrik,
I will do. Much less stress having a spare turbo to refurbish, then I will just swap it out. Well may be just swap it out, you never know with Land Rover….
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