- Detta ämne har 11 svar, 3 deltagare, och uppdaterades senast 2021-01-01 02:08 av .
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Dear Guys and Girls,
Can I get your advice please, I have a 2002 Defender 90 TD5, 205,000 kms. Its been running fine, but after a few days of -8 weather and now a warm period I noticed a loud squealing noise from fuel pump. It comes and goes, but no issue with the engine running or starting. It sound like air in the pump. I have tried filling tank to the top, purging the system many times by pressing the throttle 5 times and letting the ECU run the purge process. I have changed fuel filter, which had only done 5000k. I have a feeling I need to bite the bullet and fit a new (expensive) fuel pump. I have checked for error codes with my diagnostic tool, no errors reported. Engine Oil is OK, so I think the injector seals are not leaking fuel at least.
[b]Two questions[/b]
a, any advice on further actions before I get a new pump?
b. I really do not fancy dropping the fuel tank in winter, I have had my 90 3 months now and have found every job is complicated due to someone over tightening, stripping and cross threading nuts and bolts. So I know removing the tank will be a real mare of a job and I do not have a garage. Therefore I am considering cutting an access hole, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8m1BitUpjDs any thoughts.- Detta ämne redigerades för 3 år, 11 månader sedan av .
- Detta ämne redigerades för 3 år, 11 månader sedan av .
- Detta ämne redigerades för 3 år, 11 månader sedan av .
Mine has been doing the same for the last 100.000kms or so. Sometimes it squeals, sometimes not. So my advice: Don’t despair yet! I’d try some Diesel additive, drive a few miles and see if the noise disappears. Most often it does.
Removing the fuel tank is a pain in the proverbial, I agree. Alternatively, you can always drill a hole through the floor of the luggage compartment (as you stated already). You will get some templates online to assist you in finding the correct spot.
Cheers- Det här svaret redigerades för 3 år, 11 månader sedan av .
Thanks Johannes, sorry for the English, still struggling to write, but can read OK ish. Really appreciate the feedback, feel less stressed now. I drove Landys for years in the army, but to my shame knew nothing of the workings, we left the REME to do all the dirty work. Good idea with the additive, will try that. I plan to go ahead with the access hole I have an idea to cut the hole with a router to control the depth of cut. I may post photos.
I wish there was a easy fix to change brake disks, with out removing the hubs, a terrible design.
Thanks again, all the Best Michael
Johannes,
Fingers crossed I may have solved it. I was thinking this started after I gave the engine bay a good clean a degrease, never had a so much as a peep out of the pump before. So I sprayed the regulator, and pipe connections with WD40, bleed the system 3 times. The noise has stopped. My thinking is the degreasing dried the injector return connections and let air in. Could be just luck tough, we will see. I will however go ahead and cut the hole in the floor, just incase.
All the Best Michael
- Det här svaret redigerades för 3 år, 11 månader sedan av .
- Det här svaret redigerades för 3 år, 11 månader sedan av .
- Det här svaret redigerades för 3 år, 11 månader sedan av .
Magic! Thanks for the feedback :D. Good on ya’! Hope the noise will go away. I’ll have to cut a hole in my truck’s floor as well at some point. Have still not got round to it so far.
With regard to the Landys, you will learn quickly. The mechanics in the Army didn’t have to worry about those modern gadgets since the Td5 never got drafted :-).
As for the brake discs, yup, it’s a major bother. Rather messy and cumbersome, but quite straightforward, actually. Luckily the job doesn’t need to be done that often. Make sure you have the right tools at hand (you’ll need a 52mm-size nut/spanner) and, if your car still has the staked locknut/spacer design that was introduced with the Td5, have a think about converting it to the earlier arrangement with double locknuts as it will make life easier next time.Cheers
Johannes- Det här svaret redigerades för 3 år, 11 månader sedan av .
Hi Johannes,
Thats interesting you say to go back to the old double nut system and not the staked nut and spacer. I have been looking at loads of Youtube videos and was thinking the spacer system looked easier, but having never done either I am very interested in your thoughts. Is the hassle with the spacer to get the zero end float?
These are two guys I have been following do you have any other recommendations
https://youtu.be/8p7zcN3W5to. https://youtu.be/O3F4dt1h3DQBeing a newbee I am open to any advice : )
All the Best Michael
Hi again Michael
Much easier to use the two locknut setup IMHO. With the staked nut you’ll need the spacers and an awful lot of torque to tighten the nut. You will need a new staked nut as well.
Haven’t checked out the videos yet, so I cannot comment on these. Will do so in time.
You’ll gain experience along the way, no worries. And even those of us who have been doing their fair share of spanner throwing are in for a surprise or two every now and then. That’s the charm of Land Rovers, isn’t it?Cheers
JohannesThanks Johannes,
Funny my wife complained that the Landy is leaking oil on the drive. I explained that it is a design feature to constantly change oil….
Merry Christmas
Hi Johannes,
You were 100% right about the staked nut system, what a pain to get the endfloat right. Also lucky I change the disks as the nut had not been staked and was only tightened to 60nm… Lucky escape …
- Det här svaret redigerades för 3 år, 11 månader sedan av .
If you have any learnings or suggestions to share please do, think we are a few that might need that……..
Hi Henrik,
Not as few as you may think. I live East of Kramfoss, and thought I was the only Landy owner, as I have seen non in these parts. Then last week I had a double take, as a dopple ganger of my Td5 90 came the other way. We were both suprised and waved : )
If the other 90 owner is around Kramfoss let me know.
All the Best Michael
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